Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Seigeworld 2016 

August 27th and 28th in St. Louis

Siegeworld Productions and the Gateway Gamers Club have joined forces to bring you Siegeworld 2016!  This event will be will be held the weekend of Aug 27th and 28th at the North County Recreational Center (link).

We are looking to grow Siegeworld so starting in 2016 in addition to the Apocalypse battle there will be a 40K ITC Tournament and potentially other events (i.e. a WH Fantasy tourney).

Siegeworld 2016 will be a 2 day event.  Players have the option of participating in Siegeworld for 2 days or they can participate in the 40K ITC event and have the option of joining Siegeworld on day 2.

In the past Siegeworld has been known for massive games of floorhammer.  Now Siegeworld is coming up to the tables!  Yes, the battlefields of Siegeworld will be played on table tops.  Siegeworld 2016 will be broken up into 2 to 3 battle fields.  There will be the main battle table and 1-2 satellite battle tables.  The main battle table will host the central battle.  Here is where Battalions of Tanks, whole Chapters of Marines, and numerous Titans will clash for supremacy.  The 1-2 satellite battle tables will play host to smaller engagements to gain control of either a long range artillery installation or an orbital defense relay.

If your interested come check it out on

Monday, April 7, 2014

Adepticon 2014

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Just got back from Adepticon 2014 and had a blast with the team tournament. The level of painting and theme choices are getting more and more out of control. It is amazing how much time people are putting into these armies. The winners each year seem to start over every year and top last years best. A couple folks took it to the next level with home made Tau Warrior outfits and another team dressed in Hawaiian gear handing out rum to every player they were facing. Here was our team's board.

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This was by far the best year our team did across the board. We started the team tournament by getting smoked with 2 losses right away against Eldar and Serpents. Still think these armies are just dumb especially when the deployment is hammer and anvil. We also got the added bonus of having night fighting. After that we rocked out and won our next 7 out of 8 games. Met some great people and saw some awesome boards and armies. I took a picture of a few and wanted to share them. I should be able to post some more later this week or next.

Hope we can see more of you next year.

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Friday, November 1, 2013

How to Prep, Assemble, and Prime Models PART 1

In this article were going to discuss a few simple steps and tips that is targeted towards that person just getting into the hobby. There are many different ways to tackle what's easiest for a new player to grasp but I will teach a few simple ones that will help your army go from plastic to table top quality in no time.. This will be a multi part article but lets get the basics.

 photo trimmingmoldlines_zps3b1ef283.jpgAssembly of models is easy enough right? Has anyone had trouble putting together models even with directions? Event he best modeler glues a piece in place before its step and has to back track at times.

TIP #1: Read instructions carefully step by step. Prep the models and work on mold lines/cleaning pieces of sprue and flash. This will help you later on when we discuss painting techniques such as dry brushing and washing. All of which will be affected by this prep. There are special tools you can go out and buy to clean flash and mold lines but for now just grab your hobby knife turn is on its side. Scrap the line towards you in a downward motion. this will get 90% of your mold lines out of the way.

TIP #2: Be deliberate when you glue your models. I know it sounds like common sense but globing on the glue to get that piece to stick can effect your end result badly. Take a few minutes and understand how your models are going together and in what steps you need to take. Glue accordingly and sparingly but enough to assemble the model. There are many different glues you can use but for the beginner I suggest super glue GEL. Its very easy to work with and apply. It wont run and glue your fingers together. That makes it pretty hard to continue without frustration.

Once you get to this point you are ready to prime. Now as I mentioned before this is a multipart article and we will be discussing basics, painting and sealing later but for now lets get these models primed.

TIP #3: Know what your base color will be, this will assist you in what color you should prime the model. For the beginner I am going to suggest 2 options. Using army painter primer available in many colors or using regular flat spray paint from Wal-Mart (white, black or grey) *** important this must be flat. NO ENAMEL or gloss even its it's cheaper.

TIP #4: Based on your color your using for your base will determine primer color. Example Dark colors need black and light colors use white primer. For deep bases you need to use grey primer. What do I mean by this? Well if your base colors are yellow you would not want to prime clack and if it was brown you wouldn't want to prime it white. Now for some colors such as red, green, and purple I suggest using a grey primer which will allow you to build up to your true color easier.

For now we will leave it at this. Check back with us for Part 2 where we can discuss primer application and getting that first color on.

This article was written by Avery.

Check out his work at

Also if you want to see some other local work subscribe to to see a local players tips and tricks. What nice is if you have questions he is at the St Charles Fantasy Shop most Tuesdays.

Thursday, October 17, 2013

Taking the Lawyer out of Rules Lawyering

For anyone who has played any GW games for awhile it becomes apparent that the rules are neither concise nor complete.  GW has gaps and often when they introduce more codices into the game, they introduce more holes and unclear interactions.  This especially happens when bringing in allies because not only are you doubling your fun you are also doubling vague rule interactions.
A brief introduction to the two ways that people try to resolve these rules arguments are 'Rules As Written' (RAW) and 'Rules As Intended' (RAI).  Rules As Written assumes that all answers to the rules are somewhere in the rule books.  Rules As Intended tries to perceive what GW's original intent when they write a rule.  I'm a strong believer that one must try to use both when trying to figure out the correct rules.

Back to the original intent of this article and overcoming those obstacles when they occur in play.  I am going to break this article down into casual/friendly playing and tournament playing because they require different mind sets in trying to resolve disputes.

Casual Play

You're playing a buddy and he does something that you think is against the rules.  What do you do?  If you want to ruin the fun break out the rule book and challenge him on everything.  The first thing you should ask yourself before doing anything is - 'Is this relevant to the game?'  What do I mean by that?  For example, if it is the last turn of the game and it has no relevance to the outcome then does it really matter?  If the answer is no then just let it go and bring it up after the game has ended in a friendly way.
The other way to try and resolve disputes is ask a third party for their opinion, preferably someone you both trust to be able to answer the question.  However, before proceeding down this road make sure it is agreeable to your opponent that is how you are trying to resolve the dispute.  If they don't agree before hand and the decision is to either person's liking then it really just drag on and now you have more people involved in the argument.
If all else fails you can just D6 the decision like it says in the rule book.  It's quick and easy, but for someone like me I dislike the arbitrariness of a die rule on rules.
I strongly suggest that you put a time limit on discussions like these to about five minutes.  Usually anything past five minutes doesn't bring any new information and it drags the game on and starts to make it unfun. 
If you disagree with how the rules decision went then write it down and research it after the game.  If you can't find an answer by reading the rule books then there are plenty of sites online where you can present rules questions.

Tournament Play

Before going to a tournament I try to print out all the FAQ's from GW's site to make sure that I have the most current FAQ on hand.  I also make sure that I have the appropriate rule books with me and have read through any special rules several times so I know what they do.
If the tournament includes a lot of players, then the chance of having a rules dispute probably goes up exponentially.  Also realize that if you are going to a tournament that is not just for local players, different stores/areas play rules in different ways.  Do not be surprised to find that the person across from you does things in slightly different manner.  If in doubt, discuss it before the dice start rolling.
On a side note here, if you are unsure of the rules of the other person's army then you are perfectly okay to ask to see their codex for the relevant rules.  If they state a rule that seems questionable, then make sure you ask the question and look at the rule.  You have a right to see the rule that is in their codex.
When a rules disagreement occurs in a tournament then both players have an immediate out.  Either player has the ability to call a rules judge over for a decision.  I strongly suggest that you never get into a heated argument over rules at a tournament and as soon as you realize that there is an impasse in regards to different rules that you call over a rules judge.
When the rules judge comes over state your case clearly and succinctly and allow your opponent to do the same.  It is helpful and usually moves the process along faster if you have the relevant rules open in the books in case they need to look at the wording.
A word of caution, rule judges are not infallible.  Having been at tournaments I have seen them make the wrong calls which cost me games and cost my opponent games.  I have also been a rules judge and have gotten the rules wrong.
When planning on going to a tournament if there is a rule that you want clarification about because you have a strategy that depends on certain rule interactions then you should email the tournament organizer before hand and ask.  You should get a response.  Print out that response and take it with you.  Your opponent may not accept it, but the rules judge usually will when you show it to him.
After playing in a lot of tournaments on a nationally level and also talking to other tournament players these is my general assessment of the behavior during games.  At the top tables, they are quick to call you on any rule mistakes you make but if you forget to cast psychic powers before moving there generally is no "Gotcha!" type shenanigans.  The environment is generally more casual and friendly.  The middle tables is where the douche bags are at and where people will play "Gotcha!" if you forget anything.  The low tables is usually once again where people are friendlier and more casual.
In conclusion, 40K is a game that has lots of flaws in its rules thanks to the lack of any type of editorial staff at GW.  At the beginning of 6th edition GW was good at updating their FAQ's online but in the last half year they have dropped off again.  Most people don't like arguing the rules, and then there are people like me who do.  These are tips to help get around these problems when playing both casually and in tournament settings.  Some of these tips can be used in both casual and tournament play.
-written by Alan Campbell

Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Custom Decals just in time for Space Marines

The new Space Marine codex came out and you want to create your own chapter.  An easy way to do that is to make your own shoulder decals for a custom chapter. This is a great way to build that army you wanted and give it the look of a professional job for pennies on the dollar. Also if you just want some symbols or words for your tanks because the sheets provided just don't have enough of what you are looking for. Here is an example of the great work these decals can do if done right. The mighty Star Phantoms.

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Where to go for paper
Things to keep in mind

When buying custom decal paper there are two types of decal sheets, ones that can be used for inkjet printers and those that are used for laser printers.  Inkjet printer custom decals often have to be special treated after printed in order to stabilize the decal.  The ones used for laser printers do not.  I often choose the laser printer type for ease.  For color laser printer I often use Kinko’s. This works great if you print off your decal sheet on regular paper and then they can make a smooth copy for you onto the decal paper.

Helpful hints

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On a side note if you go the custom decal route, printers do not print white. Since white to a printer is a negative space, an area that has nothing there.  Usually the best kind of decal to make is a dark symbol and then put that on a light background.  If you need to do white decals, you will have to get a custom print job. Armorcast is able to make those but note that anything that is remotely similar to GW they will probably refuse.

Like with most projects it is best to print a few and use the decals on test models and see how well they work. Custom decals are the cheapest way to make an independent chapter. When my friends wanted decals for their Space Sharks, Red Scorpions, and some other symbol for their chapters I did them up.

When looking for symbols or marks off of the internet, it is better to get jpg images over gif images as jpg images retain a crisper image as you scale them up and down.  Also it is preferable to get a larger image and scale it down then it is a small image and scale it up as it can lose clarity.
Another useful resource is the decal project over at Bolter And Chainsword:
This is a great resource as they have a lot of the old logos and some generic sheets that give you an idea of what sizes you need to scale down or up to so you have a great decal for that model you just finished.

Your imagination is your only limit with printing your own decals. Think about how you can take your terrain to the next level or make that banner look the way you always wanted it to. Its up to you and now you have the resources. Good luck and get those Marines ready for the table.

Monday, September 30, 2013

Fantasy Shop Warhammer 40k 1000 Point Tournament

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So we had a very cool event this past Sat. I held a 40k 1000 Point tournament at the local Fantasy Shop store in St. Charles MO. We had about 19 sign up ahead of time. Of those 19, 16 showed up and an additional 8 people came. So we had a showing of 24 people. About 6 regulars from our local area did not attend. There was a $10 entry fee and each game was given a 2 hour time limit. I would have to say that I think the 2 hour time limit was great because people actually finished their games.

Things that went well in my opinion

 photo temporary_zps8ed1da32.jpgThe time limit was great because folks actually finished their games. I did see a clear difference in the folks that play tournaments and the people that don't though. We had a few games get done pretty fast but no one had a true 5 round game in less than 1.5 hours except one. had a lot of people through in the towel early and one that got tabled pretty fast due to bad reserve rolls.

New players came out of the woodwork for this one. I loved seeing the new faces form around the St. Louis area show up. We had some really good balance of the usual people and others come out. We had pretty much our bases covered from each corner of our community. Even had some folks that don't usually play give it a go.

We had some pretty cool painted armies that made judging painting fun for those that attended. I have everyone who is playing in the tournament vote for the best army. Of the 9 armies submitted for painting 3 of them had 5 votes or more.

Forgeworld was allowed and we didn't have a single person take advantage of it. I restricted it to 2 FW models only. Also we had folks who own plenty of forgeworld models but still chose to stick to codex.

We had ZERO big issues this go around. No real big rules disputes that I heard and each dispute I was brought in for the book covered. For me as a T.O. I love it. I try to stay away from the games completely that way I don't interfere. Now I will say in round three I spent time around the tables of the lower tier just to see what issues they were having and to give some pointers.

 photo temporary_zps7c04266e.jpg Things that need work on my part

I should have posted the scenarios a week out which was the plan and I just failed to do it. I think that would have allowed people to build better balanced lists for the missions. I am still up in the air on whether or not I want to do that but I think I will the next go around to see how it works out.

More story driven missions like what I have done in the past. I think it gives us some cool things to do and provides for some other areas for people to win something.

Track the army types playing. Now this may sound petty but I want to make sure in the future the same guy doesn't face three straight rounds of Chaos Space Marines or another army. Most of the FUN of tournaments is that you play armies you are not used to playing and you get variety the day you play. That was not achieved for a couple of players where with the point spread I could have mixed it up better.

Set up the tables further apart so each player at least has a 1' x 4' area to place their armies and they can put their display boards away. I actually knocked over a guys ork army while announcing pairings and that really made me sour for the next hour. I wanted to stop what I was doing to help put three of his models back together but I had to get all the pairings out.

 photo temporary_zps333199f7.jpg Terrain needs work

One thing our club needs to work on is terrain at the store. It's great that this location has about 15 8x4 tables but we only really have about 5 tables worth of terrain and it's in disrepair at best.

I want to work with the shop to see if they can get us some terrain of at least a deal on some so we have a good count for at least 10 tables.

I also need to focus more on ensuring that each table has basically the same design so there is no advantage from being on one table over another.

In Summary

 photo temporary_zps724dd6e9.jpgAll in all it was a ton of fun to run the event and with numbers we had I will continue to run them at the lower point cost. I think its easier and leaves more room for newer players.

I didn't here any complaints during the event so that's always a plus and we had the whole gaming area to our selves this time which is awesome.

Hoping for the next event I can have a couple armies on a 4x4 to do demos because we did have about 10 folks walk up to see what we were doing and it left me an opportunity to show them the game where I got kind of lazy. Hopefully everyone that attended truly had a good time.

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

GW Space Marine Centurions Painting and simple Basing

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Recently Tobias gave us a run down of how he did up a squad of Centurions for the North County Fantasy Shop display case.

Painting and Building

 photo 9-23-2013072_zps44a743a0.jpg photo 9-23-2013071_zps600eae8d.jpg"I did these Centurions for a local store. I was asked to do them as Ultra Marines. I like working with blue anyways. I started out with my air brush. I base coated with GW Kantor Blue. I then highlighted with my air brush using a mix of GW Altdorf Guard Blue and GW Macragge Blue. I based the whole model using GW Leadbelcher, GW Balthasar Gold, and GW Abbadon Black. I washed all silver parts and gold parts with GW Agrax Earthshade. I then took time to clean up all of the blue. I used some water blending for the blues. After I had everything cleaned up I decided the feet needed to be dirty. I just used some weathering powder mixes to make it look like they were kicking up dust while moving forward. That was the idea at least. I decided not to seal them because they are going to just sit in a case."

"These models were not hard at all to put together. The trickiest part would have to be the cables that go from the elbows to the back. The models are not able to be posed at all. They are what they are. You can interchange the arms, waist and legs, chest, and weapons. There are enough weapons to kit them in any configuration you want."

And for the Basing Tobias gives us a quick run down to get a professional look with amateur skills.

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 photo 9-23-2013073_zpsf2b20e7c.jpg"I decided to try a simple basing technique this time. I simply painted on the GW granite which is one of their tech paints. I painted it on very heavy to give the base some grit. It takes a while to dry after this. I then base coated GW XV-88 followed by a heavy dry brushing of GW Terminatus Stone. I then applied a very heavy wash of GW Seaphim Sepia. I let it dry fully. I then did a very light dry brush of the same Terminatus Stone. Very simple and looks nice. You could always go further, maybe add some static grass, or even some skulls and shell casings."

Really looking forward to giving more run downs on simple painting and basing techniques. For more info head over to our site at